Night Train to Zagreb
After being awoken 6 times for passport checks, we stepped groggily but excitedly off our night train onto the streets of Zagreb.
Croatia and Slovenia cover part of what is better known in the US as the Balkans (remember, we sent lots of troops there in the 1990's). The war for independence after the break up of the former Yugoslavia and the subsequent violence/terrorism has kept most tourists (with the notable exception of Germans, whom we encountered regularly) well away, and all but erased the area from American conciseness outside of a political context.
Those lucky enough to experience Croatia now will appreciate the lack of oppressing tourism found in other Mediterranean countries like near-by Italy. Scars of the bloody conflict raging just 10 years ago are evident in the bullet riddled ghost towns dotting the highways, which today serve as an erie reminder in an otherwise rebuilt and vibrant land.
Traditional Western Europe is ideal for looking. There is perhaps more to look at there than anywhere else in the world - Architecture, Art, Artifacts, Remains, etc. Croatia, although rife with history, is ideal for doing. Hiking, (nude)swimming, scooter riding, exploring, dancing, boating, sunbathing and adventuring are all found in exuberant abundance. The Adriatic seafood was among the best I've had, and barring that, one would be hard pressed to find better value for your Kuna.
Coming from a subdued Germany, the nationalism of Croatia was striking - although easily understandable when placed in context with their history. Perhaps my timing was off: our stay there encompassed a week of intense campaigning leading up to their annual elections. Although traditional means were used, campaigning also took the form of sponsored rock concerts (one of which I accidentally attended) and bikers towing billboards behind them down city streets. Mud slinging took on a new meaning when I encountered one billboard artfully defaced so as to make the plump candidate look like a pig (see
photos).
Slovenia, however, stuck me as a Slavic-Austrian hybrid - both in the feel of the land and the genetics of the population. Having escaped any notable violence during the war, the public consciousness feels more comfortably western. The capital city of Ljubljana is like Prague without the tourists. I quickly fell in love with its beautiful old district, the downtown river, outdoor bars, live music and energizing friendliness.
Both counties share a vibe of promise: one can feel the energy and sense of opportunity building towards a desired position amongst the European community as equals rather than that of its problem children.
Electronic Music Decoded
Electronic music is an enigma to the bulk of the population. Even those who have dabbled in that water, like myself, are still easily confused as to the plethora of styles and their origins.
Do not despair! Our day of awakening has come!
Ishkur's Guide to Electronic Music is a helpful and entertaining page dedicated to clearing away the fog. From the main page one can select a number of basic categories of electronic music. You are then lead to a 'tree chart' of sorts which chronologically traces the lineage of each unique sound. The whole page is interactive, allowing one to click on an area of interest to learn more and hear a representative sample of that genre.
Life in this Country
The longer I live here, the less I know.Germany has so many layers - just as I work thru one and think I've got it all figured out, there is another peel of the onion to remove to reveal another quirk, facet or deficiency. For example: myself and a number of expat friends here have finally had, within the last couple months, some measure of success with the Germans on a romantic level. That was a huge breakthrough. We were on top of the world! Or so we thought. To give us some credit, it certainly was a step in the right direction - but not the earth shattering "Everything is going to be alright" gestalt we'd been hoping for. Within a couple of weeks we had all been derailed just as fast as we'd gotten on the train.
Since then some have figured things out a bit better, while others like me are left scratching our heads.
that's all a little vague, but to go into detail in this case would be exhausting. To be honest with you and myself, I can't yet properly articulate all the observations and feelings I have about this Western European country. Sitting down with you over a beer or coffee for a few hours might make a good dent in what I know, which is only scratching the surface of the real situation.
Though I suppose its all a matter of perspective. When a German male walks past with his jeans rolled up to his upper calves (because its
sunny out) while still wearing dress shoes and top, I shudder. When I walk past in flipflops, cargo shorts and a light longsleeve t-shirt (as we in Boulder often do on a mild spring or fall day), Germans shudder. Ok, I'm sure others shudder too, but that's aside the point. The point is that I and any other internationals in Germany might very well be just as much of an enigma to the Germans as them to us. We just tend to forget that lesson when, for example, we are left befuddled by someone who one week acts like a great friend, the next week is cold, and the next two weeks warms right back up... Now that I mention it, many of us have experienced a
Hot/Cold relationship with several Germans. Perhaps we just agitate them on a regular basis and that's our punishment. Then again, that would make entirely too much sense.
A Long Time Coming
I know, I know, I know. And I'm sorry. Really.
This is the first time I've gone for so long without an update - but its not for lack of 'goings on' - rather quite the contrary. May is drawing to a close but I feel like its hardly started.
Most notable was an 8 day trip to Croatia and Slovenia. You can find lots of photos
HERE.
I'll be posting in the next 24 about that amazing trip...
I've also been in the throws of an integrated life in Germany. More on that very soon too!
