Off the Map

Night Train to Zagreb

After being awoken 6 times for passport checks, we stepped groggily but excitedly off our night train onto the streets of Zagreb.

Croatia and Slovenia cover part of what is better known in the US as the Balkans (remember, we sent lots of troops there in the 1990's). The war for independence after the break up of the former Yugoslavia and the subsequent violence/terrorism has kept most tourists (with the notable exception of Germans, whom we encountered regularly) well away, and all but erased the area from American conciseness outside of a political context.

Those lucky enough to experience Croatia now will appreciate the lack of oppressing tourism found in other Mediterranean countries like near-by Italy. Scars of the bloody conflict raging just 10 years ago are evident in the bullet riddled ghost towns dotting the highways, which today serve as an erie reminder in an otherwise rebuilt and vibrant land.

Traditional Western Europe is ideal for looking. There is perhaps more to look at there than anywhere else in the world - Architecture, Art, Artifacts, Remains, etc. Croatia, although rife with history, is ideal for doing. Hiking, (nude)swimming, scooter riding, exploring, dancing, boating, sunbathing and adventuring are all found in exuberant abundance. The Adriatic seafood was among the best I've had, and barring that, one would be hard pressed to find better value for your Kuna.

Coming from a subdued Germany, the nationalism of Croatia was striking - although easily understandable when placed in context with their history. Perhaps my timing was off: our stay there encompassed a week of intense campaigning leading up to their annual elections. Although traditional means were used, campaigning also took the form of sponsored rock concerts (one of which I accidentally attended) and bikers towing billboards behind them down city streets. Mud slinging took on a new meaning when I encountered one billboard artfully defaced so as to make the plump candidate look like a pig (see photos).

Slovenia, however, stuck me as a Slavic-Austrian hybrid - both in the feel of the land and the genetics of the population. Having escaped any notable violence during the war, the public consciousness feels more comfortably western. The capital city of Ljubljana is like Prague without the tourists. I quickly fell in love with its beautiful old district, the downtown river, outdoor bars, live music and energizing friendliness.

Both counties share a vibe of promise: one can feel the energy and sense of opportunity building towards a desired position amongst the European community as equals rather than that of its problem children.

posted by Jason @ 3:51 pm