Friday, April 08, 2005

Castles and the High Life

Supposedly the best castle in England open for visitation, Warwick doesn't disappoint. Just don't expect Minas Tirth.

Scrambling up claustrophobic stairs to amazingly high tower tops lined with archer-slits, strolling down massive battlements, fighting for a strong stomach while exploring the dungeon and torture chamber (equipment still present), investigating the gate-house defenses and machinery, watching a classically trained archer let loose 20 arrows a minute on a 14th Century mid-sized bow, learning how a full suit of armor is donned, watching trained eagles, falcons and owls show off over the castle grounds and indulging your childhood medieval fantasies - these are the lure of Warwick Castle.

4 hours later (yes, you can easily spend 4 hours there) I caught a train to Oxford where I was picked up by 3 English Uni-students in a new Mini. I had met one back in Regensburg thru a mutual business course - so when she heard I'd be in her country over our break, she excitedly set up a meeting. I ended up spending the next 3 days with her and her 2 friends, all students at York University. The bulk of it was in Nottingham, the very town Robin Hood terrorized in days of old.

Nottingham was a heavily industrialized town until the 1980/90's, when globalization and improved efficiency moved the textile and weapon factories abroad. Since then its been notorious for high unemployment and subsequently a high crime rate. But in the last 5 years something has shifted: smart planning, marketing and petitioning is casting Nottingham as a young and vibrant town good for shopping, clubbing, and generally living it up. This has brought in a slew of redevelopment projects to tear down some of the very ugly industrial buildings, inserting new glass/steel info and tech companies in their place; put hip flats in old factories (like LoDo in Denver); and clean up the run-down mess that was many a neighborhood. Has it been successful? Though my stay was short, I would say yes. I was impressed with the downtown redevelopment and plethora of shops, clubs and bars. I stayed in one of those renovated factory flats, which was rather pimp. Perhaps most importantly, I felt just as safe as anywhere else in England.

I must admit that my positive vibes stem partly from the lifestyle we maintained that weekend: The High Life. Living in an expensive, well decorated apartment in the heart of downtown (with a killer sound system!). Driving around in a Mini, eating great food (we cooked all but 1 meal ourselves, but went all out with nice dinners, picnics in parks, and even a rooftop BBQ), drinking great beer, listening to great music, watching DVD's on a big screen surround sound system, lounging around town in shops and clubs, and enjoying the company of funny/intelligent/affable people. Does it get much better?

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